Week Twenty-Four: Sorbet
Sorbet has an even longer history than ice cream. The earliest forerunners of ice cream were essentially sorbets, in that they were ice mixed with a sweet flavouring. The first introduction of a dairy product was in China, sometime between 618 and 907; the discovery that salt mixed with ice helps lower the freezing point probably also came from China. This enabled ices to be frozen, rather than relying on naturally frozen ice. Ice cream didn’t enter Europe until about the 1500s, until then it was sorbet all the way.


The Gunter’s confectioners called sorbets ‘water ices’. They generally had a very high crossover between each other, with most of their recipes being near enough identical, although Jeanes was the only one to give measurements beyond ‘a little’ and ‘enough to flavour’. I was thinking of making what they all call grape water ice but is really elderflower, mainly because I love elderflower as a flavour, but then I saw one of the unique water ice recipes: Jeanes had a recipe for banana water ice. I’m not actually a massive fan of bananas but like most of my food aversions, it’s a texture problem not a taste one. I enjoy the taste of banana but I hate how mushy they feel.
Banana water ice
Ingredients
There were no specific amounts used by Jeanes, it was all based on ratios. This was the amount that a bunch of five bananas made, but as always use the percentages.
310.27g banana purée (see below) (45.33%)
260.08g water (38%)
114.07g caster sugar (16.67%)
Method
1. Make the banana purée - use a blender to pulp the bananas, then pass it through a sieve; you will need to force it through the sieve, it won’t just drip through
2. Add the water and sugar, and whisk thoroughly (I use a stand mixer and balloon whisk)
3. This doesn’t necessarily need to chill but I’d suggest leave it in the fridge for several hours to let the flavour strengthen
4. Re-whisk and pass through a sieve again; you may find some pushing is still needed
5. Churn according to your ice cream machine’s instructions; stop churning once the water ice is no longer moving through the paddle but is almost ‘clumped’ to it
6. Put into a container and freeze for at least four hours, preferably overnight
So, it turns out I possibly don’t like banana as a taste, either that or they were mushy even in a water ice. Other people have said this is very nice, but I don’t like it one bit. I did really like the strawberry water ice I made in preparation, and that has even easier ratios: juice some strawberries, weigh how much juice you have and add half of that weight in water and half of it in sugar, then follow the same instructions from whisk onwards. That was extremely nice, and as we enter the summer I’m hoping to make more refreshing water ices.
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